So, here I am eating divine fish and very unusually drinking wine in a restaurant 10 metres from the shore of the famous Lake Baikal, in the incredibly touristy Listvianka and the forest is right there behind me. You can see the huge pines clinging to the rocks above. They weren’t planted and aren’t managed, it’s just that Listvianka is squeezed between the forest and the lake and the forest is there waiting to reclaim it’s own.

You’re never far from the forest in Siberia. Small towns are just clearings in the forest and even the big cities simply peter out at the edges with the trees ready to encroach back onto their territory.

I’m being a tourist for a couple of days break from the train and untypically have visited 2 museums – they are housed in beautifully restored wooden town houses that belonged to Decembrists who were exiled to Siberia for, basically, trying to establish human rights in Russia in 1825. Absolutely fascinating. I learned a lot – and it all puts Tolstoy, who I am still reading, into context.

Staying in THE most delightful place in the world! It’s a real homestay – a flat where I’m like one of the family with the girl who lives here (she’s just finished university) and her little sister who’s staying with her during the school holidays. They are delightful and I’ve loved being here. Budget travel isn’t all about the money – without exception all the ‘best’ places I’ve ever stayed at have been small, simple, homely places where you get to know the people and are, incidentally, always cheap.

Everyone in Listvianka smokes fish from the lake by the roadside

Vladivostok station is lovely art deco inside and outside the sea glitters in the dark with the lights of the harbour and the moon – now half full.

I wait at the top of the steps down to our train with a family who were near me in the waiting area and establish it’s the correct train. We’re joined by a young woman, tall, slim and very smart, with various bags about her person and dragging a massive case, talking on her phone all the while. She asks the spare man in the group (wife’s brother?) to help and he does, carrying her case down the long flight of steps before walking back up to rejoin us – not without some ribbing from brother-in-law. He then carries my bag of food for me – it’s just how people are here.

Turns out she is my compartment companion. Someone lifts her case up onto the train (foreign, unsolicited) and she summons someone else (American) to put it in it’s compartment under the seat. Prompting all sorts of reflections on my part and the conclusion that I wouldn’t WANT to ever not be able to manage my own stuff in life, ever, in any connotation imaginable. Even if I was young and beautiful and knew I could summon helpful men whenever required. But then again there is something rather lovely in an innocent sort of way about launching off and trusting there will be good people to help along the way.

It’s horribly, unbearably hot. First thing she does is to give me a wet wipe. You angel! I say. No, not an angel I am Russian, is her reply. She’s a lawyer who makes more money selling cosmetics from S Korea (she’s on her way home from there now) – all Asia loves Korean cosmetics with their ingredients like snake venom (anti wrinkle) but don’t worry, it’s synthetic snake venom. She says being helpful is the Russian way.

She is delightful and apologies for her English. I apologise for the fact that I have only one word of Russian (‘thank you’. I use it a lot). She wants to come to visit Britain but it’s very hard to get a visa. What is it about Britain? I ask. Harry Potter!!!! Russians love Harry Potter!

Our compartment is palatial with big shelves for storage and sockets aplenty and we choose free meals from a menu and are given ghastly sweet fizzy drinks and a big bar of chocolate. Mind you the free meal has yet to arrive, 11 hours later…….

What I’ve loved about Vladivostok is that it’s just a nice city of people enjoying the sun – strolling along the sea front, lurking by the fountains, eating ice creams – not touristy at all. I’ve just chilled really, and eaten divine fish at a delightful restaurant. And basked in the success of getting here. Truth to tell I’m a bit emotional – I’ve wanted to do this for so long.

Took full advantage of the 12 noon checkout with a lie in and a much needed mega sort out of stuff. Made sure there’s enough downloaded to keep me occupied. Caught up with the Archers!!!

Very much looking forward to the next leg of the journey but facing west now. I may be further east than the Far East and most definitely at the eastern end of Asia but there is nothing Asian or eastern about Vladivostok! It’s a cool, clean modern city full of smart people and good shops and restaurants. A good vibe. Next stop Irkutsk, halfway to Moscow. See you there!