Have just spent an hour or 2 in Kirkenes, very close to the Russian border, and where we turn round and head south. Had a delightful attack of sea legs, don’t quite know why it didn’t bother me in Svalbarg but today had me rolling down the street in the best drunken sailor fashion. Again, Kirkenes makes Ludlow look very lively! In fact, despite its sleepiness there are all sorts of museums and hikes and stuff but, still somewhat exhausted, I eventually found a really nice coffee shop and enjoyed a good coffee and a think before lurching gently back to my ship.

We stop in Vardo briefly in an hour or so and I will step ashore to remember the Fram who called here on her way out on her epic journey. Of course Tromso was where she landed back at the end of her voyage and was reunited with Nansen, but I was too stressed and pushed to think of them on Monday, so will stay up late tomorrow night and step ashore there again to think of Nansen, the Fram, and all her crew.

And last night we rounded the northernmost tip of mainland Europe at Mehamn, 71⁰ and 12’N ….

This is SO different from the Sea Spirit, lovely in another way. The Nordlys is fitted out (very recently overhauled) in a very modern, solidly functional, very pleasing style. Staff unfailingly courteous and efficient even when I do daft things like apparently try to get buckshee drinks from the bar because I thought just signing for them was enough. I was gravely and politely invited to open an on-board account.  I’ve spent a delightful hour or 2 kipping and sea-gazing out on deck, very glad of my ridiculously OTT red Posiedon parka (which you might have noticed me wearing as I gaze out to sea a couple of posts ago, we get to keep them), would I be seen dead in it in Ludlow? Absolutely never! Will I wear it again and again when I need to nip outside in the cold and the wet? Oh yes!

Here she is at Kirkeness…..

New jacket is perfect by the way!

So, a word about light.

It took me most of our 10 days or so of constant daylight to work out what was mystifying me and why the sun was never where I expected it to be, even when I could work out where I expected it to be, which was, realistically, never…..The sun never goes down, but it never goes up either, it just goes round, quite low in the sky (of course that’s a load of bumkum, its us that’s moving but you get my drift) which is why you get wonderful sunset/sunrise type effects most of the day and why you sail south into the evening sun…….

These 2 pictures were taken 2 minutes apart, looking in opposite directions from the Sea Spirit, at just after 10am…..